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1 Pound stakes into the ground every 10 feet around the perimeter. Place a stake at each corner, as well as two stakes four feet away from the corner stakes to be used as support posts for the corner bracing. Attach a fluorescent string to a corner post, and string the line between the stakes. Check the line for straightness. If necessary, move a stake to make the line straight. This will be the guide when you dig the post holes. 2 Check with the utilities office to ensure that there aren't any buried utility lines where you will dig the holes for the posts. It can be dangerous to accidentally hit a utility line, and it can also be expensive if you damage the line. 3 Dig the post holes with a post hole digger at each stake location. The depth of each hole should equal 1/3 of the total length of the post. Varying sizes of post hole diggers can be rented from home rental stores. Some are hand-held and others can be attached to tractors. 4 Make a mixture of four parts gravel, two parts sand and one part cement. You will use this mixture to stabilize the posts after you place them in the holes. 5 Place the post in the prepared hole. Take time to make sure it stands straight and that you have oriented it the correct way to make stringing the stainless wire easier later. Shovel the prepared mixture of gravel, sand and cement into the hole until it is level with the ground. Allow 24 hours for the mixture to dry around the posts. 6 Measure the distance from the top of the corner post to the bottom of the support post. Cut a support brace to meet this distance. Secure the top of the support brace with fencing nails to the top of the corner post and the bottom of the brace to the support post that was set four feet away. 7 Start in a corner and wrap the stainless wire around the end corner post twice leaving enough wire at the end for a two-foot tail. Wrap the wire tail around the wire that will extend down the length of the fence. 8 String the wire to the next post, and pound a fencing staple over the wire to hold the wire at the correct height on the post. Do not pound the staple all the way down to the post as the stainless wire will need to be able to move through the staples during the stretching process. Continue this process for the next four posts. 9 Set up the wire stretcher against the last post as described in the manufacturer's instructions, and stretch the wire that has been strung to this point. With the wire stretcher holding the wire tightly, return to the previous posts and pound the staples all the way into the posts to secure the wire in place. Return to the wire stretcher and release the tension. Continue to string the stainless wire for the next four posts, and then pull the wire tight again. 10 Stretch the wire tightly with the wire stretcher at the last post, and wrap the stainless wire at least two times around the last post. Wrap the remaining tail of the wire back along the length of the stretched wire. Release the stretcher. 11 Return to the starting corner of the fence and repeat the process for the next string of stainless wire fence at the desired height.

Chain-link fencing is a type of wire fencing that's popular around homes and businesses. This fencing is maintenance free, strong, long lasting, provides privacy and works as a barrier in many situations. It adds attractiveness to the landscape while creating a secure border around a property. Certain materials are required when building a chain-link fence, such as the fabric, hardware fittings, posts and gates. Fabric Chain-link fence fabric should be made of heavy-duty steel, preferably a minimum of eleven gauge, and include a protective coating, which makes it attractive and helps protect it from the elements. The mesh size--the space between the wires--is also important to know. Posts Chain-link fence posts are made from steel and should be at least fifteen gauge. They should also be strong and have a protective coating to prevent corrosion. The coating may come in colors such as green, black and brown, and can last up to 15 years. Hardware Fittings You'll need hardware to hold your fence together, including bolts, bands, nuts and a tension bar. These fittings should be of high quality and the right size. Gates Most people add a gate to their chain-link fence, not only for entering and exiting but for its aesthetic quality. The gate can be made from the same gauge of wire as the rest of the fence. Popular types of gates include aluminum corner gates that have four gate corners made in die cast; bent-frame gates, which are made with four bent corners; and square welded gates, the corners of which are all welded.

1 Space your fence posts no more than 8 feet apart. Dig post holes every 6 to 8 feet down your boundary line. Pour concrete in the holes and insert the fence posts. Use a level to make sure the fence posts stand straight.   2 Cut two two-by-fours to the height of the wire mesh to act as stretchers.   3 Drill round-head bolts every 8 inches along the length of the wire stretchers. Do not tighten them all the way down.   4 Wrap the end links of the wire mesh around the bolts on the wire stretchers. Screw the bolts in tightly around the mesh. Make sure to wrap enough wire mesh around the boards so it is secured tightly.   5 Affix one of the wire stretchers to a fence post. Use at least 4-inch carpentry screws to attach the bottom, top and center of the wire stretcher to the outside of the fence post. If you pull the wire mesh out, it should run perpendicular to the wire stretcher and fence post.   6 Tie a hand-cranked chain pulley tautly to the next fence post. Affix the chain hook to the center of the non-attached wire stretcher. Crank the fence into the next post. Crank slowly, allowing the wire time to stretch without snapping as it becomes more and more taut.   7 Lock the pulley's crank teeth into place. Screw down the other wire stretcher onto the post. Unlock and detach the hand crank.

Rail Steel Rail steel is a high quality steel that has been recycled from railroad rails. Railroad rails are made of high carbon steel to withstand many years of massive weight from trains full of cargo. When railroad steel is recycled it is heated and re-rolled. This process decreases the size of the metal grains which increases resiliency.   Galvanized Galvanized steel is steel that has been dipped in molten zinc to protect against corrosion. During the galvanizing process the zinc reacts with the iron in the steel to form alloy layers of zinc and iron. The outer layer is pure metallic zinc. Iron will rust very quickly; the zinc layers protect the iron from the elements that cause corrosion.  Carbon Steel Carbon steel is made from two main elements, carbon and iron along with some magnesium. Carbon is the principal hardening and strengthening agent in steel. T-posts for barbed wire can be formed from cast carbon steel. Cast carbon steel is a 'C' grade material that contains a small amount of magnesium. The combination of carbon and magnesium give the steel strength, durability and weldability.

1 Measure post positions with a measuring tape and mark with a dot with a black marker on the concrete surrounding your swimming pool. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions as to the distance between posts for your particular kit. Most kits have post placement at three feet apart for 15-foot fence sections. Measure each post position from center to center. Continue around the fence line in this manner to mark all post positions. 2 Insert a 1/2-inch diamond core drill bit into the drill and press firmly downward on installation surface to drill a clean hole. Replace the bit with the 3/4-inch bit and drill the hole to this size. Replace this bit with the 1-1/4-inch bit and drill the hole to its completion size. 3 Insert a post sleeve into each post hole. Insert a post into each sleeve inside of the holes and twist clockwise to lock into place. Place a metal fence clamp on both the top and bottom of the post lining them up with the pre-formed holes in the fencing. Screw two screws at the top and bottom through the fencing and into each post. Continue this method around the entire fence line. Most merchants carry sizes of pool mesh fencing in heights ranging from three to five feet tall. Choosing a higher mesh can contain small children as they grow so that only one purchase is necessary. 4 Attach a safety latches to all adjacent poles. Safety latches vary from company to company but they generally clip around each post

A fence is a freestanding structure designed to restrict or prevent movement across a boundary. It is generally distinguished from a wall by the lightness of its construction: a wall is usually restricted to such barriers made from solid brick or concrete, blocking vision as well as passage (though the definitions overlap somewhat). Fences are constructed for several purposes, including: Agricultural fencing, to keep livestock in or predators out  Privacy fencing, to provide privacy  Temporary fence, to provide safety and security, and to direct movement, wherever temporary access control is required, especially on building and construction sites  Perimeter fencing, to prevent trespassing or theft and/or to keep children and pets from wandering away.  Decorative fencing, to enhance the appearance of a property, garden or other landscaping  Boundary fencing, to demarcate a piece of real property  Types of fence   Typical agricultural barbed wire fencing.  Split-rail fencing common in timber-rich areas.  Chain link fence surrounding a field in Jurong, Singapore.Various types of fencing include: Barbed wire fence  Chain-link fencing, wire fencing made of wires woven together  Concrete fence, easy to install and highly durable  Chicken wire, light wire mesh for keeping predators out and chickens or other small livestock in  Electric fence  Ha-ha (or sunken fence)  High tensile smooth wire  Hurdle fencing, made from moveable sections  Newt fencing, amphibian fencing, drift fencing or turtle fence, a low fence of plastic sheeting or similar materials to restrict movement of amphibians or reptiles.  Palisade  Pest-exclusion fence  Pet fence Underground fence for pet containment  Picket fences, generally a waist-high, painted, partially decorative fence  Pool fence  Post-and-rail fencing  Roundpole fences, similar to post-and-rail fencing but more closely spaced rails, typical of Scandinavia and other areas rich in raw timber.   Slate fencing in Mid-WalesSlate fence, a type of palisade made of vertical slabs of slate wired together. Commonly used in parts of Wales.  Snow fence  Spear-top fence  Split-rail fences made of timber, often laid in a zig-zag pattern, particularly in newly-settled parts of the United States and Canada  Stockade fence, a variation of the picket fence that is typically 5 to 6 feet (1.5 to 1.8 m) high with pickets placed adjacent to one another with no space between. This type of fence is commonly used for privacy.  Vinyl fencing 

In agriculture, fences are used to keep animals in or out of an area. They can be made from a wide variety of materials, depending on terrain, location and animals to be confined. Most agricultural fencing averages about 4 feet (1.2 m) high, and in some places, the height and construction of wire mesh fence designed to hold livestock is mandated by law. Wire fences The principle of wire fences is that they are supported mainly by tension, being stretched between heavy strutted or guy-wired posts at ends, corners, and ideally at intervals in longer stretches (every 50 to 300 metres, 150 to 1000 feet). Between these braced posts are additional smaller wooden or metal posts which keep the wires spaced and upright, usually 3 to 6 metre (10 to 20 feet) apart, depending on the style of fencing used. Deer fence Deer and many goats can easily jump an ordinary agricultural fence, and so special fencing is needed for farming goats or deer, or to keep wild deer out of farmland and gardens. Deer fence is often made of lightweight woven wire netting nearly 2 metres (about six feet) high on lightweight posts, otherwise made like an ordinary woven wire fence.

Commercial Commercial steel is a basic galvanized steel product that can be cut and shaped at the location at which it will be installed, using relatively simple bending methods or moderate stretching or "drawing." It can be bent flat onto itself in any direction without heat being applied. Commercial steel is used for general manufacturing purposes. It is especially popular in the auto industry where it is used for automobile roofs, seats, spring houses, parking brakes and oil pans.  Forming Forming steel has high tensile strength, and is even more "ductile" than commercial steel. Ductility refers to the capacity for it to be bent and shaped without breaking. Forming steel can also be formed into tight radii as well as be drawn into sheets or wire in a more consistent way. One of the most visible ways in which this type of galvanized steel is used is to manufacture playground swings.  Deep Drawing The label "drawing steel" derives from the sheet-metal forming process of pressing metal blanks into shapes that are cupped. Compared to forming steel, this galvanized steel product has more rigorous drawing requirements and is normally suitable for deep-drawing and extra-deep-drawing applications. Its excellent deep-drawing properties make it well-suited for use in manufacturing automobile hoods and fenders.  Structural This is a low-carbon steel that contains manganese. Construction companies and manufacturers demand nothing less than structural steel for projects that require particularly high-strength levels or mechanical working properties. Typically, these projects involve roll forming or brake press bending. If you are in a multifloored building, you are standing on structural steel because it is formed and shaped and use in situations where it has to take a heavy load for the rest of its life. Structural steel is widely used in the construction of bridges, buildings and ship construction.  HSLA High-strength, low-alloy (HSLA) steel is a type of galvanized steel that has the enormous strength and malleability of structural steel, but which boasts an even greater capacity to be shaped and formed. It is also known as micro-alloyed steel because it contains small amounts of alloying elements that include vanadium, niobium, titanium and/or zirconium. HSLA steel is a popular material for constructing lightweight structures, because it increases their loading capacity without weighing them down. For the same reason, it is increasingly popular in the auto industry for weight-reduction and fuel efficiency purposes. Other uses are constructing penstock for regulating water flow, as well as in shipbuilding and offshore construction.

Mastering the technique of wire soldering is a useful craft that can help you splice electronic wire, fuse jewelry metals, hang your favorite artwork with copper wire hangers or even create wire sculptures. Indeed, wire is a flexible tool with numerous applications. Soldering does require some practice and patience, however, so if you're new to the craft, spend some time with practice wire before you tackle the main project. Preparation Before you begin, make sure the wire is thoroughly clean. Any dirt, oil or grime will inhibit the solder from adhering properly. Scrape the wire with steel wool, sand it down or dip it in soldering flux to make sure it's clean. Do not handle it with your fingers as natural oils will stick to the wire. Use tweezers or tongs, and place it in a vise to hold it as you work. Gather your tools: a hot soldering iron, chemical flux, a flux applicator brush (or natural-hair paintbrush) and flux remover. Make sure the room is well-ventilated, as flux is a corrosive, deoxidizing chemical that can emit harmful fumes. Finally, protect yourself with work gloves and a clean, cotton respiratory mask.  Fluxing Apply a thin coat of flux to the wire, using a flux-applicator brush or natural-hair paintbrush. For electronic wire, use flux that does not leave a residue and is designed specifically for electronics. This will be indicated on the bottle. Coat the wire evenly, and be sure to apply just the right amount. Too much flux can cause the solder to bubble, and too little will prevent the solder from properly adhering.  Soldering Make sure the soldering iron is fully heated before you begin to flux. A warm iron will not solder properly, and you should be ready to solder before the flux has dried. Apply a thin layer of solder to "tin" the wire. Tinning is the process of applying just enough solder to coat the area to be soldered. Then, twist the tinned wire pieces together to create a joint. Dab the soldering iron with a damp sponge to clean it. Be sure to wipe the iron after each application so the solder flows smoothly. Solder the twisted wire with a further thin layer to secure the joint. Clean the wire of any remaining flux residue with flux remover. For electronic wire, protect the soldered joint with PVC shrink tubing. Recommended wattage for a wire soldering iron is 60/40 solid lead core. Lead-free solder is also available.

Metal wires are used to bear mechanical loads and carry electricity and signals, among other uses. They are produced by drawing a metal through an opening known as a draw plate. Wire gauge is the general term used to define different sizes of standard wire thicknesses. Coating the wires with zinc is a popular practice to avoid rusting, which causes wires to become brittle. Rusting: A Major Disadvantage in Iron Wires Iron and carbon steel wires are used mainly in making wire meshes and structures of different shapes and sizes. Owing to the elasticity and strength of steel, it can be drawn into different wire patterns with ease. But iron and carbon steel wires are vulnerable to rusting. Rusting is a natural process whereby iron and other metals are slowly turned into oxides in the presence of air and moisture, resulting in the weakening of the metal. Use of Zinc Coating to Prevent Corrosion Using products made from iron wires can be dangerous in high-moisture environments as the wires will lose their strength quickly and become brittle. The most effective way of checking this is by coating the metal wire with another layer of sacrificial metal so the damage is confined to the outer layer. When zinc is used to cover iron or steel wires to protect it from corrosion, such a setup is called zinc-coated wire. Reason behind Zinc Coating of Metal Zinc is the fourth most available metal in the world. By nature, zinc is more reactive to the environment. As a result, it attracts most of the air and moisture to itself to form zinc oxide and zinc hydroxide. Upon reacting with the carbon dioxide present in the air, this compound converts into zinc carbonate--a strong and impermeable substance that does not allow more moisture or air to interact with its underlying layers. Effects of Zinc Coating on Wires As a result of the reactive tendency of zinc, the bottom layers of iron or carbon steel remain clean and free from rust for a long time. Industrially, zinc coating is done after the wire is drawn from the die and then hardened. For the coating process, the wires are dipped into molten zinc before being taken out to cool. This gives the wire excellent elasticity. Uses of Zinc-Coated Wires The layer of zinc coating can vary between 100 grams per square meter to 300 g/m2, just as the weight of a single coil of galvanized wire package can vary from 10 kilograms up to 1,000 kilograms. These zinc-plated iron wires are used to tie vines in vineyards and plants in orchards. These wires support plants and provide durability under stressful conditions. They are also used for building cages for birds and small pets.

Livestock Fence Panels Farm and ranch supply stores sell welded wire panel fencing designed for type-specific livestock habitat. These panels may be steel or galvanized and are characterized by the size and configuration of the holes in the mesh. Horse panels have square holes from top to bottom and have the most open grid. Cattle panels look like horse panels but have a smaller grid size. Hog panel grid work is oblong at the bottom where the horizontal wires are close together and becomes square at the top where the crosswires are further apart. A number of fencing companies will build and weld custom fence panels for such exotic applications as farming ostrich or running a wildlife rehabilitation facility.  Decorative Fence Panels Livestock fence panels can be painted with metal paint and mounted between any type or style of fence poles to create do-it-yourself ornamental fencing. If your architectural style is modernistic, source and install silver-toned "architectural" wire mesh welded fence panels; use these for property boundary delineation or even indoors as a design accent. For garden elegance, purchase fence panels that use various gauges of wire to create scrollwork frames for mesh panels, or invest in the contemporary industrial aesthetic of heavy gauge vertical wire panels or the geometric elegance of double loop or roll top wire mesh panels. Many of these ornamental fence panels provide security as well: they may be impossible to climb, keep dogs and other pets contained safely, and prevent skunks and other wildlife from entering the enclosed space.  Portable Fence Panels From pet cages and dog kennels to complete stock yards, portable welded wire panels are designed for quick setup and ease of portability. If you need to keep people out of a private outdoor function use panels that have the added security feature of a tilted, anti-climb top panel. If you host or attend pet shows or animal trials, source pet containment systems that accommodate large and small animals in appropriated spaces and come with fitted plastic canvas weather and shade covers.

Types of Steel Fence Posts for Barbed Wire Barbed wire fencing provides a formidable barrier beneficial for a number of reasons. You can keep people off of your property or ensure that prisoners or livestock remain in their compounds. Whatever motivates the installation of a barbed wire fence, posts for these will generally come from one of two materials---wood or steel. When choosing steel fence posts, find out which type works best for your purpose.  T-Posts The United States fencing market prefers T-posts. These environmentally-friendly steel posts come built with studs rather than holes, though this type of post still receives use for setting-up wire mesh. T-posts find their way to beach, fish and salt farming establishments to keep intruders out. This type of steel post can be recovered after years of use.  Waratah Australian and New Zealand fence installers tend to use the waratah post. This lightweight option is also known as a star picket or y-post, among other names. A cross-section reveals a three pointed star of roughly 10 cm in diameter. One pointed end helps laborers drive the post into the ground. The other, flat end, makes hammering easy. Pre-drilled holes allow for evenly spaced wire mesh.  U-Shaped Other options include the U-shaped post. One benefit of this style is that two posts can be bolted together for an extra level of support. You will find this durable option coated in epoxy resin and painted green. Like the other steel posts, these possess several advantages over wooden posts. They are lightweight, fire resistant and easy to drive into the ground. They also resist damage from animals and birds. Choose this option for a permanent barbed-wire fence. 

1 Locate the boundary lines to your property and drive stakes into the ground along the extension of your property line. Stretch a string between each stake. 2 Dig post holes 8" wide and 18" to 30" deep, with vertical sides (the hole should not slope but be perfectly straight top to bottom. 3 With crayon or chalk, mark the ground line on the posts. Once in place, the terminal posts should be the height of the fabric plus two inches. 4 Set posts in concrete with a mixture of 1-part cement, 2-parts sand and 4-parts gravel. Mix a fairly heavy solution, as too much water weakens concrete, resulting in cracking. Posts should be centered in the hole. 5 Check the plumb with a carpenter's level, making sure the chalk or crayon marks remains at ground level. 6 When plumb, crown all concrete post footings for water drainage by sloping concrete away from post. 7 Locate and set line posts. After 24 hours, when the concrete footings have hardened enough for posts to stay plumb, stretch taut between terminal posts. It should be positioned on the outside face of the posts, 4" below the top. 8 Measure the distance between terminal posts to determine exact distance between line posts. 9 Starting at terminal post, unroll chain link fabric on the ground, along the outside of the fence line to next terminal post. Slide a tension bar through the first row of chain-link. Fasten the tension bar/fabric combination to the evenly spaced tension bands. 10 Add fittings to terminal post and then add rail end bands. Apply all post caps to terminal posts and top rail. Walk along the fabric, and stand it up against the the fence frame, taking out the slack as you go. Apply post hinges to gate post. 11 Stretch the fabric. Set gate in place aligning top of gate with top of fence. Adjust hinges to allow for full swing. Tighten all bolts securely.

Chain Link Perhaps the most common and popular form of security fencing, chain link fences came to prominence in the 1940s and 50s. Crisscrossing steel wires in the form of a mesh compose chain link fences, which are supported at intervals by line posts, corner posts and end posts, also of steel material. Chain link fences may also be topped with barbed wire for added security. According to the Chain Link Fence Manufacturers Institute, chain link fences provide "strength, corrosion resistance, 'see thru capabilities,' ease of installation, versatility, variety of product selection and value." Most chain link fences feature a two-inch mesh, but fences with an extremely high security factor may feature as little as a one-inch or three-eighths of an inch mesh; smaller meshes make chain link fences harder to climb, but reduce see-through visibility. Welded Wire Mesh Somewhat similar in security features to a chain link fence, the meshes of a welded wire mesh fence are---as its name suggests--joined together via welds (while chain link fence meshes are simply linked together, not welded). Galvanized steel wire generally composes welded wire mesh fences, which often come in a pattern of square or rectangular grids. Though this differs from the diamond meshes of chain link, wire mesh still provides a see-through quality. The smaller meshes of this security fence make climbing unlikely. Welded wire mesh can be supported by steel or wooden posts, or incorporated into outdoor settings by using trees as posts. Welded wire mesh fences can be topped with barbed wire and come in various PVC coated varieties, which offer numerous color options. Palisade Palisade fencing offers an aesthetically pleasing security fence option. Composed of hot dipped galvanized steel, palisade fences are straight steel posts that stand vertically in line, held up by horizontal steel supports and often fixed to the ground with base plates. According to manufacturer Anping Qiyuan Netting Company, palisade fences are strong, stable and rust-resilient---they also provide a see-through quality. These steel security fences are often tall (up to 3.6 meters) and difficult to climb; posts come in "D" section or "W" section shapes, with the W shape's concave construction making the fence even harder to climb. For additional security, many palisade fence posts feature pointed or multi-pointed tips. Palisade fencing comes in a variety of colors, creating by fixing colored galvanized steel plate to the posts. 

Features Chain link fences are woven and made from galvanized or coated steel wire. The wires are vertically bent into a zig-zag design to create the diamond pattern of chain link fencing most people are familiar with. Chain link fencing comes in heights from 3-feet to 12-feet, although custom heights can be easily achieved. The wire used to create the fencing comes in an array of gauges. The lower gauges are thicker and, thus, more expensive.  Types The three main types of chain link fencing are galvanized steel, privacy or "slat," and PVC coated. Galvanized steel chain link fencing is bare wire and is the least expensive. Slat chain link fencing comes with plastic rails which have been woven into the wire. These slats are available in many colors and can be added after manufacture. PVC coated chain link fencing is treated with a vinyl coating which is thermally bonded and protects against rust. It may also come in a variety of colors and is two or three times the cost of bare, galvanized fencing.  Benefits Chain link fencing is very popular because of its low cost and easy installation procedure. Another benefit of chain link fencing is its transparency which does not block sunlight. However, if more privacy is desired, slats can easily be installed into the mesh of the fence. The DIY-er can also install chain link fencing with the help of install kits without the need to hire professionals.  Warning Before installing chain link fencing, the builder must check for local zoning and building permits. Restrictions may apply to the type and size of fencing that can be constructed in certain areas. The danger of unearthing or damaging buried utility lines is also a problem for the do-it-yourself installer. Contact local utility companies to locate these lines and avoid them.

Step 1 Place "T"-type metal poles in the ground at the end (corner) points of the area to be fenced off. Metal poles should have a "V" type attachment about a foot from the bottom, which can be used to push the pole into the ground with a heavy boot step and will then help anchor the pole when it is pounded down further with a mallet Run a chalk line or string between the end poles so a straight line of poles can be placed at 10-foot intervals. (Each pole is placed in the ground the same way the end or corner poles were placed.) Roll out the fencing on the ground along the line where the fence posts go.. Step 2 Start the end of the 4-foot fencing (which comes in 50-foot lengths) at one end pole by wrapping the fencing once around the pole. Place four zip ties at top, bottom and two mid-point intervals at about 18 inches and 30 inches from the bottom. (If plastic coated metal "chicken wire" type fencing is used instead of plastic mesh, the end horizontal wires of the substituted chicken wire type of fence can be individually wrapped around the pole and twisted upon themselves with pliers to anchor the fence instead of zip ties. Wear gloves because the ends of the cut wires are sharp.) Fencing can be rolled out on the ground along the line where it is to be erected. Step 3 Stretch the fencing between poles and pull zip ties tight at the same four points on each pole along the length of the fencing. Repeat the process until all fencing is pulled tight and upright along the length of the fence enclosure. Step 4 At the last point, wrap the fencing around the corner post and cut it with tin snips. Attach the fencing to the post with short bungee chords or other fasteners that can easily be undone to allow access. Clean up scraps and leftover poles so no dangerous debris is on site.

Chain-Link Fencing Chain-link fencing consists of interwoven steel wires, which form a distinctive diamond pattern, that stretch across metal posts. The wire meshing usually comes in spools, which you can unroll, cut and fasten to the metal posts as needed. While some people use chain-link fencing permanently by cementing the posts into the ground, construction crews often utilize wide, tubular bases at the bottoms of the posts to keep the fencing portable. According to Fast Fence, in addition to being rot-resistant, chain-link fencing is at a low risk of toppling, as its open design allows for gusts of wind to blow right through. This open design also makes it easy for crews to watch over work sites, which is beneficial both for safety reasons and for preventing trespassers.  Welded Wire Panel Fencing Unlike chain link fencing, welded wire panel fencing consists of a series of individual units, each of which features a wire mesh panel welded between two posts. You can arrange these units in whatever orientation you want, without having to unroll, cut or attach anything. According to Fast Fence, welded wire panel fencing typically provides more stability than its chain-link counterpart, as it has smaller spaces between its wires. This feature also makes it more difficult for potential intruders to climb welded wire panel fences, as there is not enough space for someone to get a grip with their foot.  Plastic Fencing Police, security companies and several other organizations commonly utilize plastic fencing for perimeter and crowd control. For example, during concerts, organizers will often set up plastic fencing in parking lots to regulate traffic flow. According to Signature Fencing, the fencing comes in a wide array of different shapes, colors and styles. While some models are stackable for easy storage, others fold up--like the arms on a scissor lift¡ªso that they can be convenient for carrying.  Dog Fence Kits One of best ideas for a temporary residential fence is to use a dog fence kit, many of which you can find online. Most models are incredibly easy to install and consist simply of stakes, or posts, and a fabric or plastic mesh material that you wrap around them.

Step 1 Contact your local zoning authority to find out which utility providers may have easements in your area. They will visit your property and use flags or spray paint to indicate where their utilities are buried. If you damage a cable or pipe, you could be liable for repair costs. Step 2 Take out a fence-building permit (if required in your community) and make sure you put the fence on your property. If you are in doubt, the country zoning board will determine your property lines (for a fee). Pay close attention to height restrictions when building your fence. Step 3 Dig the holes for your support posts to a depth of at least 30 inches for a 6-foot-high fence. The standard post distance for a wood privacy fence is 8 feet, but consult the lumberyard if you are using different fencing material. Step 4 Set the corner posts first. This is imperative in order to make sure your fence line is even. Mix only the amount of concrete you need for one hole at a time. Shovel a couple of inches of wet concrete into the bottom of the hole and position the post. Ask an assistant to hold the post upright as you shovel concrete in around the sides. Bring the level of the concrete slightly above ground level and form a gentle slope away from the post to encourage water drainage. Step 5 Level the post before the concrete sets. Work quickly, especially if you are setting the posts on a hot dry day. The dry ground will quickly leach the moisture from the concrete. Use a carpenter's level on all sides of the post. Allow the concrete to cure on the corner posts before setting the center posts. Step 6 Tie a string from the outside of one post to the outside of the other post, at the top, pulling it taut. This string will serve as your guide and it will remain in place while you set the rest of the support posts. Place the center posts and make sure each post is level on all sides and that each post barely touches the guide string. Step 7 Cut and install the fence rails. The rails go on the outside of your support posts. This will allow you to install the fence boards on the outside of the rails. Some homeowners prefer a smooth look on the inside of their fence, and they reverse the process, putting the rails on the inside of the posts. Although this makes a smooth interior look, it reduces security as the rails on the outside of the fence provide a foothold for would-be intruders. Step 8 Install the fence boards using galvanized screws to prevent rusting. You may purchase fence board spacers, usually in 1/4- and 1/2-inch increments. Install the first fence board by the corner post and install another one next to the opposite post. Check each fence board for level and for height and then run a string line from the top of one fence board to the top of the opposite fence board. This string serves as a guide for installing the rest of the boards; they will just barely touch the string. Step 9 Repeat with the rest of the boards, using the spacers to make sure they are evenly spaced. When you reach the final board, you may have to remove it and cut it lengthwise to fit if the space is less than the standard board width. Cut only the last board, not a center board.

1 Determine how much fence you need. Mark off the area for your fence with small wooden stakes. Measure the distance between the stakes. Add the measurements together. This is the length of your fence. If the length of your fencing is not evenly divisible by 5, add on extra feet until it is. 2 Determine how many stakes you need to build your fence. Take the length of your fence and divide by 5. This is the number of chicken wire stakes you need. 3 Tie a string from one wooden stake to the next, connecting them all. The string serves as a guide for setting the chicken wire stakes. 4 Begin with the corners. Using the sledge hammer, pound the chicken wire stakes into the ground until the metal flange at the bottom of the stake has been driven completely underground. Once the corners are set, place a stake every five feet between them. 5 Pry the metal hooks on the chicken wire stakes open with a screwdriver. 6 Hook the wire of the fencing into the stake hooks, making sure the bottom of the chicken wire is flush with the ground to keep animals from going underneath it. 7 Close the hook around the chicken wire, binding it to the stake. To do this, hold the sledge hammer behind the stake and pound the hook shut with a regular hammer. 8 Use the tent stakes to hold the chicken wire to the ground, hooking them through the wire and pounding them firmly into the soil.

1 Measure your garden's perimeter, using a tape measure. This will indicate the amount of chicken wire necessary to enclose your garden. 2 Calculate how many stakes you need by dividing the perimeter's diameter by five. For example, if your perimeter is 25 feet, you'll need five stakes. The stakes will be placed at least every 5 feet around the perimeter of your fence. 3 Place string along each side of your garden and secure it with a heavy object such as stone. Dig a trench at least 1 foot deep and 2 inches wide behind the length of string, using a shovel. 4 Place one stake at the corner of the trench and hammer it 1 foot into the ground. Repeat with the remaining stakes at each corner. After the last corner is finished, begin hammering stakes at 5-foot intervals around the perimeter of the garden. To mark the opening of your fence, hammer the last two stakes 3 feet apart. 5 Place the chicken wire in the trench behind the stakes. Have another person help you. Pull the chicken wire tightly and staple the entire length of the wire at 5-inch intervals along the entire length of the stake. Unroll the chicken wire as you go until you have stapled the wire around the entire perimeter of the garden. 6 Backfill with soil and firmly press down with the back of the shovel as you complete each side. When you reach your gate stakes, roll out an extra 2 feet of wire around them. Cut 2 feet off the bottom of the wire, using wire cutters. Secure the gate to the adjacent wire with tie wire to open and close the gate.